We visited the Thien An pagoda, a fabulous old shrine built in 1670. Among the monuments and statues was a large gold statue of Siddhartha that exuded incredible calm and beauty.


The site includes a monastery and we were treated to a private Buddhist ceremony by one of the monks-in-training. We also spied 4 monks chanting, bonging a brass drum for emphasis (I guess),  joined by an equally pious shepherd mix who was fervently snoozing on the rug behind them. The monks’ sleeping quarters are wooden slabs, some double decked, with one blanket or cover, mosquito netting and not much else. Notably, the prime spot in the dorm, in the cool and dark rear corner, was claimed by the hallowed motor bike.

Our next stop was My Lai. You know the story.


We spent the rest of the day biking (in 95 degree heat) through miles of villages and rice paddies that featured the occasional water buffalo and many hard-working farmers hidden beneath conical hats. Narrow strips of solid land allow walking between the plots and to the villages beyond. Interspersed within and outside villages are an extraordinary number of construction projects, from repairing roofs, roads and stores to building hotels and temples. There are piles of sand, timber and tools everywhere. Also ubiquitous are wires in thick bunches hanging from wooden poles and large communication towers that seem to run the length of the country. And of course, everyone has mobile phones.

The people are amazingly friendly and everyone is quick to say hello. The kids love to practice English, which they all study in school. We hear a lot of “how are you”, “what’s your name”, and “where are you from?” We smile and return the greetings, which elicits their uproarious laughter. I suspect they are mostly laughing at us (we are a bizarre sight, to say the least.) They ride 2-3 to a bicycle, back and forth to school, in white shirts and blue pants. The teen age girls wear long white side-split dresses, long sleeved, over white pants. I guess the point there is pretty clear.

The warmth of the women is truly heartfelt. We met one elderly couple who were very curious about us and anxious to communicate their good will. The woman was deaf, and her few betel nut - red teeth were quite a sight, but she was eager to make friends and share her spirit.

We arrived just before dinner in Hoi An, where the shopping is known to be fabulous. I quickly realized I don’t need no stinkin’ bicycle….CHARGE!